Next I address the boards on the bottom. The power supply, phono
section, and input board. Again, new caps (audio grade where needed)
and complete cleaning.
section, and input board. Again, new caps (audio grade where needed)
and complete cleaning.
To access the tuner section there are a lot of wires that need to be disconnected. Some are long enough to allow re-wrapping and others are not. Those that are not will need to be
replaced with the correct color coded wire. This is 24ga wire. I have a stock of 20ga and 24ga wire in white, dark blue, light blue, gray, black, red, orange, green, and yellow. This
covers 80% of my needs. I also keep all the wire I strip out of units that are longer then 5". I have a drawer full of salvaged wire that covers the striped color coded wire as well as
pink and purple and other colors. When all else fails I will resort to a color that may be different than the original. In this case, I alway select a color that is unique in the application as
to keep it easily traceable.
Once the wires on one side and ends have been removed the board can be flip up on its side. Now you can clean and access the solder joint to replace caps.
replaced with the correct color coded wire. This is 24ga wire. I have a stock of 20ga and 24ga wire in white, dark blue, light blue, gray, black, red, orange, green, and yellow. This
covers 80% of my needs. I also keep all the wire I strip out of units that are longer then 5". I have a drawer full of salvaged wire that covers the striped color coded wire as well as
pink and purple and other colors. When all else fails I will resort to a color that may be different than the original. In this case, I alway select a color that is unique in the application as
to keep it easily traceable.
Once the wires on one side and ends have been removed the board can be flip up on its side. Now you can clean and access the solder joint to replace caps.