Part the "adaptor ring" from the stock along the reference mark.
The next thing we do is turn the PVC ring into a "clamp", by cutting a
length-wise slit into it. I chucked it into a vise and used a small back-saw.
Once this is done, I worked the slit over with a file and sand paper to
obtain an even 1/16 inch wide gap.
I sanded all the rough edges and marks off and painted it black with paint
specifically designed for plastic.
Notice that the replacement cap is a "snap-in" type. There are no solder
lugs.
The next thing we do is turn the PVC ring into a "clamp", by cutting a
length-wise slit into it. I chucked it into a vise and used a small back-saw.
Once this is done, I worked the slit over with a file and sand paper to
obtain an even 1/16 inch wide gap.
I sanded all the rough edges and marks off and painted it black with paint
specifically designed for plastic.
Notice that the replacement cap is a "snap-in" type. There are no solder
lugs.
Now we need to fix the hight problem. We
need to make-up for a 30mm deficit in
length.
I used a 30mm length of 1 inch PVC pipe. It
is 33mm in diameter.
The real problem is getting a solder lug that
would reach through the 30MM length of the
spacer, and provide a rigid solder joints for
the PCB.
need to make-up for a 30mm deficit in
length.
I used a 30mm length of 1 inch PVC pipe. It
is 33mm in diameter.
The real problem is getting a solder lug that
would reach through the 30MM length of the
spacer, and provide a rigid solder joints for
the PCB.
To accomplish this, I used 12ga flat copper bar stock to
form new leads. I drilled a small hole in the end to slip
over the snap-in post (I clipped the "third post" off).
With some careful measuring, to determined the needed
offset to position the new leads in the correct position, I
put a bend in the lead to form a "foot".
I slipped the 16ga snap-in post into the hole at the "toe
of the foot", and slid the new leads down to the base of
the capacitor, and bent the post over onto the foot. This
provided a mechanical retainer. I then soldered the
connections.
It is quite rigid.
form new leads. I drilled a small hole in the end to slip
over the snap-in post (I clipped the "third post" off).
With some careful measuring, to determined the needed
offset to position the new leads in the correct position, I
put a bend in the lead to form a "foot".
I slipped the 16ga snap-in post into the hole at the "toe
of the foot", and slid the new leads down to the base of
the capacitor, and bent the post over onto the foot. This
provided a mechanical retainer. I then soldered the
connections.
It is quite rigid.
A short length of 2 inch shrink tubing holds the spacer in place. I have
used silicon adhesive as well... it does not really matter what is used
(tape even...), as it only keeps the spacer in place to aid in assembly.
Once these are dropped into place and the PCB is soldered on, the
spacer is sandwiched between the PCB and the capacitor base. The
whole thing is quite solid.
It is not real pretty, but everything below the clamps sits below the frame
and can not be seen, so the looks of things here do not really matter. As
long as it is functional.
Now, do three more of these...
The finished cap assemblies slipped nicely into place and the new caps
look pretty spiffy....
used silicon adhesive as well... it does not really matter what is used
(tape even...), as it only keeps the spacer in place to aid in assembly.
Once these are dropped into place and the PCB is soldered on, the
spacer is sandwiched between the PCB and the capacitor base. The
whole thing is quite solid.
It is not real pretty, but everything below the clamps sits below the frame
and can not be seen, so the looks of things here do not really matter. As
long as it is functional.
Now, do three more of these...
The finished cap assemblies slipped nicely into place and the new caps
look pretty spiffy....
